Sunday, June 24, 2007

Plastic bags and rear washers

A brief addendum to Jon's culinary experiences post. What he failed to mention is the quantity of food we are constantly ingesting. It's just so much fun to eat here that we do it at every opportunity, whether we are hungry or not. For instance, if we see a fun Japanese sweet shop where they have something we haven't tried before, we'll walk up and point at something and try it. If, 5 minutes down the road, we see something else unusual that strikes our fancy, we'll try that as well. Time for dinner you say? It's not a matter of being hungry, if it's time for dinner we'll go find something. We figure we may never make it back here so we might as well try everything we can while we can. In the span of one morning in Takayama, we had 2 sticks of riceball skewer things each, a Japanese marshmallow, more samples than you can shake a stick at, and that was before breakfast.

Allow me to also sing the praises of the Japanese toilet. It is truly a gratifying experience to use even the public bathrooms here. I would never dream of using the bathrooms in the San Francisco MUNI station even if they existed, but here, they are as clean as using the ones in your own home. Every toilet seat upon which I have placed my bum has been heated. I can only imagine the amount of electricity that is used up by each and every toilet in this country. Just to give you a list of tushy treatments I have come upon: heated seat, bum spray, bum wash, deodorizer, fake flushing noise, temperature adjustment, horoscope. Ok, so I made the last one up, but I wouldn't be surprised if it exists somewhere. In a chocolate cafe we went to, the toilet lid automatically goes up when you open the door, a truly hands free experience. In our hotel, there are actually instructions on how to use the toilet, its not just a flush and you're done. There is a little nozzle that shoots out warm water in a bidet like way. You can sit there all day and press buttons to see what will happen next. And, as if that weren't enough, in an eco-friendly way, you can even wash your hands in a makeshift sink built over where the pump part is behind the toilet. When you flush, water comes out of a regular spout, you wash your hands in that, then that water goes down to fill up the tank! It's wonderful, really. Japan is certainly one step above every other country in the cleanliness department. Jon has been yelled at in Japanese twice for not removing his shoes and/or slippers.

Oddly enough, I can't stop thinking about my mom throughout all of these germ-free trysts. I would like to publicly thank my mother, yes, you Sheryl, for teaching me that if you drop some water on the floor, someone will inevitably come across that water with their dirty shoes and make mud, and that mud will be tracked all over the house. This is how my obsession with cleanliness began and now I have Japan to thank for making my dream of cleanliness a reality.

On a different note, we've also noticed some interesting and ultimately disturbing inconsistencies. Such as the eco-friendly factor. This being the home of the Kyoto Treaty and the humble Prius, they aren't as aware as you would think. On the positive side, you see way more recycling containers than garbage cans and there's no excuse not to recycle. As a matter of fact, it's almost impossible to find a garbage can so on more than one occasion we ended up carrying our trash around with us all day. Also, everyone uses public transport here because the train system is so efficient and reliable. On the downside, the amount of packaging and plastic bags they use is utterly insane. Remember when Jon made fun of me in a blog post before we left about how I was writing down how to say "no thank you I don't need a bag" in Japanese? Turns out it's a good thing to know how to say, even if I don't remember how to say it. For example, we got some lunch in a deli type place the other day to take it to the park and have a picnic. Now, we were prepared for a plastic bag or two but what we found when we were unwrapping everything was crazy. The salad that was already in a plastic container was then wrapped in a thin plastic bag. Same thing with two other items. We were also given two plastic wrapped wet cloths for our hands. All this put into a paper bag, then that into a plastic bag. Another time Jon got a small mochi snack which was already individually wrapped, fits into the palm of your hand. The lady then started to wrap that in fancy tissue, until we stopped her, but she proceeded to put it into an oversized paper bag, then that into a big plastic bag, until we stopped her again. We simply can't get over it, and not in a San Francisco-save-the-world-earth-day kind of way. It just doesn't make sense. They love their styrofoam too. In a country that has robotic toilets, can't they devise an alternative to a product which even the U.S. doesn't use anymore?

We will both be very sad to leave because we have really started to figure out how things work here and there is always more food to try. Plus I don't think Jon has gotten a chance to use the bum washer function yet.

Saturday, June 23, 2007

Some Videos from Bhutan, Thailand and Bali

Hi all,
Here are a couple videos for your viewing pleasure.

This first one was taken in Bhutan during a trek we took in Thimpu. We were walking for about 10 hours in total with a group of about 6 plus one guy they hired just to carry our food. We felt bad for the guy becuase people liked to feed us a lot on that trip. We just wanted to capture some of the beauty better by taking a video.



This next one was taken while walking in Erawan Park in Thailand. I looked up and saw a monkey looking at us then before we knew it a whole family came down and rolled right past us. We like watching monkeys. Weve been lucky enough to see wild monkeys in every country so far.



Next one from Ubud, Bali. We watched a cremation ceremony which was more festive than anything. They make these huge floats to carry the bodies then carry them down the street in a mad parade. Its a bit dangerous as they come down the street at a good clip. This was shot just outside the Monkey Forest in Ubud where they put the float down and burn it. (This was uploaded using MSN Soapbox which is still in beta so let me know if you have any problems viewing).


Video: Bali Ceremony

Friday, June 22, 2007

Japan

Hi all,
First off, new feature! Our trip map which can be seen over there --->
We hope to add new thumbtacks periodically. There are a couple on there now from Bali when I was first playing around and another from Tokyo.
Is it simply too annoying? Its an idea I was playing with and I got up too early this morning and theres free internet here so there it is. Let me know if anyone has problems seeing it, or if I should just get rid of it.
Moving on, weve just spent the last 2 weeks in Japan and were now spending the last 5 days here in Tokyo before we head out to China.

We love Japan
The first thing Gay did when we got off the plane was to use the airport toilet. After a good 10 minutes, she came out of the bathroom beaming.
"dude, the toilets are so cool!"
"what?"
"heated seats and you can push buttons that make funny noises to cover up your own farting noises."
"wow"
we knew we were going to be in for a wild ride after that experience. we have since experienced many new and exciting inventions in the bathroom sciences but in addition to that weve seen some great sites and had an overall fantastic time. The best thing we did was bought ourselves Japan Rail Passes which lets you use Japans incredibly extensive railway system to go anywhere in the country. The best part about it is that we got to ride the famous bullet trains, or shinkanzen.
Unfortunatly we didnt have enough time on our passes to see everything we wanted to but I think we got a great variation of what the country has to offer.

Onsen
Japan is a very clean country. The trains are clean, the streets are clean, the public bathrooms are even clean. So it's no surprise that people take bathing very seriously. This combined with the fact that Japan is a very geo-thermally active country makes for a love of what they call the Onsen. Onsen is basically a hot bath (sometimes a very very hot bath) powered by geo-thermal natural forces. There are all kinds of Onsen: public, private, indoor, outdoor, with sand treatments, with mud treatments, etc.. The thing they all have in common is that you must be naked and as such there are strict rules and protocol. Gay and I have had a total of 4 onsen experiences and the scariest ones by far are the public onsen. Stripping down and getting into a room with about a dozen naked Japanese dudes, having only a faint idea of the governing rules, and not an english speaker in sight is something that gets you right out of your comfort zone to say the least. After getting over all of the nervousness, onsen can be a very relaxing and theraputic experience.

Culinary Courage
this trip is not only about seeing and doing new things but weve made a determined effort to eat as many new and authentic foods as possible. With Gays culinary background and my penchant for eating weve gotten through a number of amazing meals and some pretty scary ones. Now eating our way through Asia sounds a lot easier than it actually is. We've seen the travel shows, our favorite being the Anthony Bourdain one where all he does is drink and smoke cigarettes. He casually rolls into a resturant and suddenly the most amazing or scary dish appears in front of him, he eats the dish has one of those mouth-gasms that only chefs like him can pull off, he takes a sip of his beer and in the next shot he's partying with the locals and having the time of his life. The part they sometimes leave out is that his travel companion who not only speaks the local language, but knows all the best places, is in the backghround making everything happen. Gay and I dont have a friend like that, although we once tried unsuccesfully to bribe a tuk-tuk driver in Thailand to come have lunch with us so he can explain the menu and order us some vegetarian food. Regardless, the truth of what happens is that it's really hard to find english on menus in some places weve been. In addition, the best food, especially in Thailand is not even in resturants, it's on the street vendors who rarely know English. Once in Thailand, Gay and I went to an open air market and we were determined to get our dinner from a vendor. We purused the line and tried to figure out what each of them were selling. As I was looking in on one vendor I happen to raise my head and catch the gaze of the owner/cook. He cocked his head to me, saying non-verbally, "you want somme of this?" I nodded back then I turned to Gay and said "whatever this guy is cooking, were having it for dinner." Somehow, through the cooks broken english, my deft pointing and hand waving and gays cheer of "no meat! no meat!" we ended up with a nice glass noodle salad and seafood soup combination.
Since then we have gotten a lot braver. We have ducked into some ramen shops here in Japan and made ended up getting some truly fantastic meals. Staying meatless on the other hand is a difficult chore. Gay has been pretty steadfast but I've broken down and had some meats of known and unknown origins.

Well try and get some pictures up soon..we got some good ones here in Japan..next stop is China.

Bye for now,
Jon

Friday, June 08, 2007

Bhutan, plus tons of pictures

Hi all,

We had a fantastic time in Bhutan. truly one of those once in a lifetime experiences and we lucked out big ime with accomidations and guides.

Bhutan breakdown
For those that don't know how it all works, Bhutan just rececently, and very cautiously, opened it's doors to foriegners and tourism. Seeing how overrun with tourism Nepal and Tibet have become, Bhutan wanted to do things a bit different. So basically, you can only come into the country with an approved guiding organization with a flexible itinerary and it costs about $250/day/person to be there. Now while that seems a bit much, it's actually great value for what you're getting. You work out you're itinerary with your guides, they spend all day with you driving around and giving history and answering ALL of your questions. Plus we got mammoth portions of food for all of our meals.
Since we could only do 5 days it was a bit rushed and we tried to cram as much in as possible. we got up early most days and we were exhausted by the end.
Not only did we see some incredible architecture, but we also got a 5 day crash course in Buddhism as went to some very holy sites. Here are some highlights of the stuff we saw (plus there are some pics below)
- Saw some cool fortresses and monasteries. we had one of those "National Geographic" momets where we stepped into a monastery and there were about 40 monks praying and chanting and it felt very surreal. Unfortunatly we couldn't take a picture there.
-Spen a night in a proper, 400 year old farmhouse and ate with th family. It was amazing. It was like going back in time. They only got electricity 4 years ago, no water pumped into the house. Pictures show the woman churning butter, then she proceeded to make cheese with the leftover whey. Then the liquid left from that they drink. We tasted it, not very pleasing to the western palate but they love it.
-Hot stone bath after a 10 hour hike. The rocks get heated in a fire then put in water. The water gets pumped into a wooden bath filled with herbs. Imagine sitting in a bamboo hut, in the hot bath, drinking ara (distilled wheat wine). Not too shabby.
-10 hour trek from the farmhouse back to town. Straight uphill for about 6 hours till we reached a monastery. They had hired a man just to carry the food, poor bugger. It was no ordinary picnic. Food galore with lots leftover.
-Each lunch was like a feast. Maybe they think westerners eat a lot, but one meal we counted 8 small dishes, plus rice, plus dessert and fruit. There is a picture of that one. We just kept laughing at how the food just kept coming and coming.
-Private concert by a few people of a performing group. Our driver told a few lies to get us in to see some traditional musical instruments. The leader of the group used to be the best guitarist and singer in the country. Jon got to try out the guitar which was beautifully painted and shaped like a dragon.

We could go on forever about 5 days but the pictures should speak for themselves. We didn't even put all of them on because Jon has a picture limit as he has to do all the coding for the pics and it takes a while.

On to Japan tomorrow (we changed our itinerary a bit). Can't wait for that one! Although Gay is starting to not hate Bangkok so much. How can you hate a place where you can buy two shirts for $2?

Pictures

Bali



Thailand



Bhutan

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